Happy St. Patrick's Day! Strangely enough, we will be having a friend from Ireland and her fiance over for dinner this Thursday, Serena from my Hebrew class, and Vitaly, a mechanical engineering student in his last year of undergraduate studies.
Dawn's parents arrive for a visit in less than a week. We are both looking forward to their coming! No adventures to report as of late, unless you count mattress shopping for the parents, and dental fillings. I did finish the last of my 5 Stefan Zweig books this week, and look forward to meeting with my advisor in the next few days to decide on a thesis topic for my MA thesis/dissertation. I need to get going on Hebrew homework (no surprise there). We are invited to a potluck birthday party this evening at Jacob and Tiffany's, friends from Bible Study. Plans are pretty well set for our adventures next week with Mom and Dad Ashley. The weather is gradually warming up, with some days pleasant, some days a bit too warm, and some days kind of chilly. So the weather can't quite decide what season it is!
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Flying off cliffs in Norway
This has nothing to do with our goings on in Israel, but it's a very neat video of wingsuit jumping off the cliffs of Norway sent to me by a good friend at the Air Zoo. With all of the traveling Dawn and I will be doing this year, we don't plan on using this mode of "transportation"!
wingsuit base jumping from Ali on Vimeo.
wingsuit base jumping from Ali on Vimeo.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Reading, writing, and Hebrew surviving
Dawn is now walking again, more or less normally, and without crutches, though not for super long distances.
On Feb. 16th, we enjoyed the musical Guys and Dolls (in English) by the Light Opera Group of the Negev, including our friend Jacob playing the lead character, Sky Masterson, and his wife, Tiffany, in the chorus as part of the "Save a Soul Mission". See
http://www20.brinkster.com/lightopera/index.html
for more info. We also enjoyed meeting Nadine's parents on their recent visit to Israel. Nadine was an intern in the German Studies Center during Fall Semester. She left early for home about a week after the war started, but came back with her parents as originally scheduled at the end of the semester. I recently went to see Slumdog Millionare (English with Hebrew subtitles) at the movie theater downtown in the mall with some friends from Bible Study. Hebrew continues to frustrate me, but I continue to do the homework and learn a few new things each class. I have now read 5 of the 6 Stefan Zweig books I set out to read on my dissertation advisor's instructions. I also recently enrolled on the thesis make-up track for the second semester, which starts April 16th.
Andreas (a friend of Sonja's and a chemistry post-doc) had a birthday dinner at a nice but casual restaurant in the BIG shopping center (yes, that's its name) last Thursday evening. The amount of brainpower among the 20 or so people must have been staggering. From post-docs in chemistry and physics to foreign exchange students from Ohio State and Indiana University, there was quite an array of people. Unfortunately, Dawn stayed home sick with a stomach bug.
Saturday night we had Jenny (a Hebrew classmate and fellow Foreign Lang and Lit PhD student from China), and her husband Max, a chemistry post-doc, over for dinner. Sunday night I saw The Curious Case of Benjamin Button with Andreas and Sonja and some of their friends at the campus movie theater. It is almost half the cost of a regular theater (19 NIS = $4.75 instead of 35 NIS = $9). Sonja, our friend from Austria, recently introduced us to Andreas, a post-doc in chemistry from South Africa whose parents are Austrian born. He attended German-speaking schools in South Africa, so he is fluent in both German and English. Today, we enjoyed our weekly lunch with Sonja, Andreas, and their friends Silke (from Germany, a chemistry PhD student who is here doing lab work for 2 months), and Silvia, from Italy, a post-doc in biotechnology, but by training a physicist. Andreas and I have plans to go see Valkeryie, the new movie with Tom Cruise as Col. von Stauffenberg, who attempted to assasinate Hitler unsuccessfully.
On Feb. 16th, we enjoyed the musical Guys and Dolls (in English) by the Light Opera Group of the Negev, including our friend Jacob playing the lead character, Sky Masterson, and his wife, Tiffany, in the chorus as part of the "Save a Soul Mission". See
http://www20.brinkster.com/lightopera/index.html
for more info. We also enjoyed meeting Nadine's parents on their recent visit to Israel. Nadine was an intern in the German Studies Center during Fall Semester. She left early for home about a week after the war started, but came back with her parents as originally scheduled at the end of the semester. I recently went to see Slumdog Millionare (English with Hebrew subtitles) at the movie theater downtown in the mall with some friends from Bible Study. Hebrew continues to frustrate me, but I continue to do the homework and learn a few new things each class. I have now read 5 of the 6 Stefan Zweig books I set out to read on my dissertation advisor's instructions. I also recently enrolled on the thesis make-up track for the second semester, which starts April 16th.
Andreas (a friend of Sonja's and a chemistry post-doc) had a birthday dinner at a nice but casual restaurant in the BIG shopping center (yes, that's its name) last Thursday evening. The amount of brainpower among the 20 or so people must have been staggering. From post-docs in chemistry and physics to foreign exchange students from Ohio State and Indiana University, there was quite an array of people. Unfortunately, Dawn stayed home sick with a stomach bug.
Saturday night we had Jenny (a Hebrew classmate and fellow Foreign Lang and Lit PhD student from China), and her husband Max, a chemistry post-doc, over for dinner. Sunday night I saw The Curious Case of Benjamin Button with Andreas and Sonja and some of their friends at the campus movie theater. It is almost half the cost of a regular theater (19 NIS = $4.75 instead of 35 NIS = $9). Sonja, our friend from Austria, recently introduced us to Andreas, a post-doc in chemistry from South Africa whose parents are Austrian born. He attended German-speaking schools in South Africa, so he is fluent in both German and English. Today, we enjoyed our weekly lunch with Sonja, Andreas, and their friends Silke (from Germany, a chemistry PhD student who is here doing lab work for 2 months), and Silvia, from Italy, a post-doc in biotechnology, but by training a physicist. Andreas and I have plans to go see Valkeryie, the new movie with Tom Cruise as Col. von Stauffenberg, who attempted to assasinate Hitler unsuccessfully.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Airfare Searching, travel planning
Recently, both sets of parents decided to make plans to come and see us in Israel. We are excited! But this has meant that is has been hard for me to set aside my penchant for searching for good airfares constantly. My mom hopes to find a more reasonably priced airline ticket to Germany this summer (the Israel portion is already taken care of), but it is proving frustrating, not to mention time consuming. As is my lack of motivation to struggle onwards with my Hebrew homework. Dawn's ankle is slowly improving. She's started physical therapy and has started using one crutch. (Around the house she walks without them). Hopefully by the time our parents come in March, she will be up to trekking (or at least walking) around! I need to start the next Stefan Zweig novel and get to my Hebrew homework. We're looking forward to the opening performance of Guys and Dolls by the Light Opera Group of the Negev (LOGON) Monday night, starring a friend of ours, Jacob. Last week we went to a jazz concert in the auditorium on campus. It was a youth jazz orchestra, with 2 singers alternating as soloists. They were quite impressive. Computers are both a gift and curse. Recently, the latter has been true for me! This marks my staying away from my computer for a few weeks, except for e-mail (I hope)!
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Dissertation prep and ankle sprains
No exciting news or travels to report, but 2 weeks ago Wednesday Dawn fell off a curb on the way to school and badly sprained her ankle. So, she has been taking a taxi to and from campus a couple times a week since then, as well as to our Friday night Bible Study group. She also has crutches. This has meant an increase in the amount of work I've been doing around the house. I've also been reading, reading, reading, in preparation for finalizing a topic for my MA thesis/chapter of my eventual dissertation in Foreign Languages and Literatures (German), and slogging through my Hebrew class after 4 weeks of no class during the war in Gaza. On the urging of my PhD advisor, I'm attending a conference at the Uni Potsdam from April 22nd to 24th, and purchased my airline ticket and rail pass this week. Dawn will stay behind here to focus on her research. I will go to Germany a week early, in order to visit friends and probably do some research while there as well. My dissertation topic will deal with the novels and novellas of Stefan Zweig, an Austrian writer of Jewish heritage during the first 4 decades of the 20th century and avowed pacifist and believer in European integration. He lived from 1881-1942.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Escape to Eilat and tour to Petra, Jordan
When last I wrote, I tried to give a view of things as they are seen by Israelis, as best as I can determine. I realize the current war in Gaza has stirred many emotions, large protests, and the loss of civilian life on both sides is tragic. I won't go into that any more here, except to suggest reading the Jerusalem Post at www.jpost.com for the Israeli perspective, and reading papers from multiple other international sources, and if you can find it, an Arab newspaper.
To get away from the sirens and incoming rockets in Be'er Sheva (pronounced "Bear" Sheva), sometimes written as Be'er Sheba (the Hebrew letter for "b" and "v" is the same), Dawn and I escaped to Eilat, the Israeli resort town on the Red Sea for four nights last week. Eilat is the southernmost city in Israel and Israel's only access to the Red Sea. From Eilat, you can see 4 countries: Israel, Egypt to the south and west, Jordan to the east, and Saudia Arabia to the southeast, some 27 km/15 miles distant. You can view photos from our trip at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/airzoojosh/EilatIsraelAndPetraJordanJanuary2009?authkey=-fp9Pizd1JU#
We arrived on Thursday afternoon and walked along the North Beach, in front of many high rise hotels and vendors selling everything from clothing and toys to ice cream. Eilat enjoys 359 days of sunshine per year, and year-round water temperatures between 70 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit, regardless of the time of year. Eilat is a tourist town extraordinaire. There are 40-50 hotels within the city of 70,000 people. Our hotel was across the street from the Eilat downtown airport, where charter and commercial flights arrive carrying vacationers from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, a 4-4.5 hour drive north. Larger planes from Europe and Russia must use the larger Eilat airport 25 miles north of town, though I was surprised that a 757 managed to land at the downtown airport. Our hotel room overlooked the runway. Planes must back taxi on the runway to reach the terminal, as there are no taxiways. (Sorry, I'm an avid aviation buff and long-time Air Zoo volunteer!).
On Friday, Dawn and I met up with Jenny and Max (anglicized names), a Chinese couple we know from the university. Jenny is in my Hebrew class and working on her PhD in Russian Jewish Literature, while her husband Max completes a post-doctoral fellowship in the chemistry department. We spent the better part of the day at the Underwater Observatory and Marine Park, where we saw the sharks and sea turtles get fed, enjoyed a movie in the Oceanarium, saw countless fish of all colors and sizes, and (the highlight for me!), the coral reefs and the amazing variety of sea creatures from 6 meters (about 20 ft.) below the surface of the water in the Underwater Observatory.
On Saturday, we went snorkeling at the Coral Reef Marine Reserve, an Israeli National Park one bus stop before you get to the Underwater Observatory (coming from Eilat in the north). I didn't feel strong enough to go out into the deep water, but was able to see a few fish among the corals closer in to the shore. Dawn made two trips out into the deep area, as the current carried her swiftly along the reef from the northern pier to the southern pier. Saturday is Shabbat, the Sabbath day, but buses still run in touristy Eilat, unlike other Israeli cities. Don't let the taxi drivers tell you otherwise. They are best ignored. If you go though, be advised that buses do stop running for the day sometime between 3 and 4 pm on Friday (the Sabbath Eve) and Saturday (the Sabbath).
We were originally going to return to Be'er Sheva on Sunday, but decided to stay one more night so we could take a day-long tour to Petra, Jordan. This involved packing up and leaving our hotel at 7 am, as we could not extend for an extra night without doubling the cost of the room per night. So I found another hotel on the opposite side of the airport and north of the North Beach for the fourth night. We were picked up at 7 am and taken to the Yitzhak Rabin border crossing, where they had to cancel my long-term tourist visa, as I had not thought to get a re-entry visa before leaving Be'er Sheva. A re-entry visa costs $45, and so does the long term tourist visa, so in reality, I didn't lose any money. It's just a hassle. After about an hour, and payment of the border takes of $45 per person to leave Israel, enter Jordan, leave Jordan, and return to Israel, we got on a mini-bus and headed for the ancient Nabotaen city of Petra.
Our guide's name was Ali. His English was quite good, except that he said "governmental" and "economical" when he should have said "government" and "economic". Half of our group fell asleep while he was talking on the way there, as many of us had gotten up very early, or even, in the case of a law school student from D.C., taken the 1 am bus from Tel Aviv to Eilat. After a quick drive through Aquaba, the Jordanian port city opposite Eilat, which is much less developed, we had a 2 hour ride to Petra. Then we walked about 1.5 km (.9 miles) through the Siq (gorge) until we arrived at the Treasury. The Treasury was actually the burial chamber of a Nabotean king, but legend has it that the Naboteans buried their treasure in the rock, so people have shot at the rock, hoping that treasure would spill out. Along the way, one can see other burial caves carved into the rock, the ancient Nabotean water system, which is being studied by researchers today to improve water usage in the desert. The population of the Naboteans at their height was several times that of the current population. They controlled the trade route from Yemen to the Mediterranean on the ancient Spice Route, and were experts at guiding the caravans across vast stretches of desert. No one else at the time (3rd century BCE-2nd century CE) had this knowledge. The Romans did not conquer the Naboteans until 106 AD, due to the many natural fortifications that the surrounding mountains provided. Carved into the stones are images of camels and men heading in both directions.
After leaving the Treasury, we continued for another 1/2 kilometer to see the Roman Amphitheater and a re-created Nabotean market, along with more caves which used to be used as houses, though most caves we saw were used as burial sites. Then, it was an hour walk back uphill to the entrance. You can ride a donkey, horse, or a cart pulled by a donkey or horse, but the Bedouins expect a tip of $5-$10 for this "included" service. (The entrance to Petra National Park is 21 JD (about $30 USD). Our $159 per person ($140 for students) day trip included transportation to and from our Eilat hotel, assistance at the Israeli/Jordanian border, a buffet lunch, the entrance to the park, all taxes and tips, but NOT the $45 per person border entry and exit fees. We had lunch around 2:30 pm, and returned to the border crossing about 5:45 pm. The border closes each night at 7 pm.
What happened to the Naboteans? They continued to exist after the Roman conquest in 106 CE, but the trade routes gradually moved north of Petra, and two earthquakes in the 4th and 6th centuries destroyed what was left of Petra, which had gradually fallen into decline with the decline of Petra's importance on the ancient Spice Route.
To get away from the sirens and incoming rockets in Be'er Sheva (pronounced "Bear" Sheva), sometimes written as Be'er Sheba (the Hebrew letter for "b" and "v" is the same), Dawn and I escaped to Eilat, the Israeli resort town on the Red Sea for four nights last week. Eilat is the southernmost city in Israel and Israel's only access to the Red Sea. From Eilat, you can see 4 countries: Israel, Egypt to the south and west, Jordan to the east, and Saudia Arabia to the southeast, some 27 km/15 miles distant. You can view photos from our trip at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/airzoojosh/EilatIsraelAndPetraJordanJanuary2009?authkey=-fp9Pizd1JU#
We arrived on Thursday afternoon and walked along the North Beach, in front of many high rise hotels and vendors selling everything from clothing and toys to ice cream. Eilat enjoys 359 days of sunshine per year, and year-round water temperatures between 70 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit, regardless of the time of year. Eilat is a tourist town extraordinaire. There are 40-50 hotels within the city of 70,000 people. Our hotel was across the street from the Eilat downtown airport, where charter and commercial flights arrive carrying vacationers from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, a 4-4.5 hour drive north. Larger planes from Europe and Russia must use the larger Eilat airport 25 miles north of town, though I was surprised that a 757 managed to land at the downtown airport. Our hotel room overlooked the runway. Planes must back taxi on the runway to reach the terminal, as there are no taxiways. (Sorry, I'm an avid aviation buff and long-time Air Zoo volunteer!).
On Friday, Dawn and I met up with Jenny and Max (anglicized names), a Chinese couple we know from the university. Jenny is in my Hebrew class and working on her PhD in Russian Jewish Literature, while her husband Max completes a post-doctoral fellowship in the chemistry department. We spent the better part of the day at the Underwater Observatory and Marine Park, where we saw the sharks and sea turtles get fed, enjoyed a movie in the Oceanarium, saw countless fish of all colors and sizes, and (the highlight for me!), the coral reefs and the amazing variety of sea creatures from 6 meters (about 20 ft.) below the surface of the water in the Underwater Observatory.
On Saturday, we went snorkeling at the Coral Reef Marine Reserve, an Israeli National Park one bus stop before you get to the Underwater Observatory (coming from Eilat in the north). I didn't feel strong enough to go out into the deep water, but was able to see a few fish among the corals closer in to the shore. Dawn made two trips out into the deep area, as the current carried her swiftly along the reef from the northern pier to the southern pier. Saturday is Shabbat, the Sabbath day, but buses still run in touristy Eilat, unlike other Israeli cities. Don't let the taxi drivers tell you otherwise. They are best ignored. If you go though, be advised that buses do stop running for the day sometime between 3 and 4 pm on Friday (the Sabbath Eve) and Saturday (the Sabbath).
We were originally going to return to Be'er Sheva on Sunday, but decided to stay one more night so we could take a day-long tour to Petra, Jordan. This involved packing up and leaving our hotel at 7 am, as we could not extend for an extra night without doubling the cost of the room per night. So I found another hotel on the opposite side of the airport and north of the North Beach for the fourth night. We were picked up at 7 am and taken to the Yitzhak Rabin border crossing, where they had to cancel my long-term tourist visa, as I had not thought to get a re-entry visa before leaving Be'er Sheva. A re-entry visa costs $45, and so does the long term tourist visa, so in reality, I didn't lose any money. It's just a hassle. After about an hour, and payment of the border takes of $45 per person to leave Israel, enter Jordan, leave Jordan, and return to Israel, we got on a mini-bus and headed for the ancient Nabotaen city of Petra.
Our guide's name was Ali. His English was quite good, except that he said "governmental" and "economical" when he should have said "government" and "economic". Half of our group fell asleep while he was talking on the way there, as many of us had gotten up very early, or even, in the case of a law school student from D.C., taken the 1 am bus from Tel Aviv to Eilat. After a quick drive through Aquaba, the Jordanian port city opposite Eilat, which is much less developed, we had a 2 hour ride to Petra. Then we walked about 1.5 km (.9 miles) through the Siq (gorge) until we arrived at the Treasury. The Treasury was actually the burial chamber of a Nabotean king, but legend has it that the Naboteans buried their treasure in the rock, so people have shot at the rock, hoping that treasure would spill out. Along the way, one can see other burial caves carved into the rock, the ancient Nabotean water system, which is being studied by researchers today to improve water usage in the desert. The population of the Naboteans at their height was several times that of the current population. They controlled the trade route from Yemen to the Mediterranean on the ancient Spice Route, and were experts at guiding the caravans across vast stretches of desert. No one else at the time (3rd century BCE-2nd century CE) had this knowledge. The Romans did not conquer the Naboteans until 106 AD, due to the many natural fortifications that the surrounding mountains provided. Carved into the stones are images of camels and men heading in both directions.
After leaving the Treasury, we continued for another 1/2 kilometer to see the Roman Amphitheater and a re-created Nabotean market, along with more caves which used to be used as houses, though most caves we saw were used as burial sites. Then, it was an hour walk back uphill to the entrance. You can ride a donkey, horse, or a cart pulled by a donkey or horse, but the Bedouins expect a tip of $5-$10 for this "included" service. (The entrance to Petra National Park is 21 JD (about $30 USD). Our $159 per person ($140 for students) day trip included transportation to and from our Eilat hotel, assistance at the Israeli/Jordanian border, a buffet lunch, the entrance to the park, all taxes and tips, but NOT the $45 per person border entry and exit fees. We had lunch around 2:30 pm, and returned to the border crossing about 5:45 pm. The border closes each night at 7 pm.
What happened to the Naboteans? They continued to exist after the Roman conquest in 106 CE, but the trade routes gradually moved north of Petra, and two earthquakes in the 4th and 6th centuries destroyed what was left of Petra, which had gradually fallen into decline with the decline of Petra's importance on the ancient Spice Route.
Sunday, January 4, 2009
The View from Israel
Dear family and friends,
Dawn and I are both safe, and staying largely in our apartment, as instructed by the Israeli Homefront Command. No rockets have landed in Be'er Sheva since Thursday. Other cities, however, closer to the Gaza Strip, continued to be hit on Saturday, with a total of 35 rockets striking targets in Ashkelon, Ashdod, and other towns.
It seems that the U.S. is the only country supporting Israel's right to defend itself at the moment. For the latest news in English from an Israeli perspective, visit the Jerusalem Post at:
www.jpost.com
Starting back in Summer 2008, Egypt brokered a 6 month truce between Hamas, labeled as a terrorist organization by the U.S., and Israel. Hamas, elected in democratic, internationally monitored elections in 2006, controls the Gaza Strip, while the internationally recognized Palestinian government (Abbas and the Palestianian Authority) controls the West Bank. The West Bank is actually on the eastern border with Israel, as it gets its name from the West Bank of the Jordan River. The Gaza Strip is a small strip of land bordering the Mediterranean and Egypt, and sharing its eastern border with southern Israel. (A World Atlas may come in handy here right about now).
Hamas, it turns out, used this truce to re-arm with longer range rockets supplied by Iran and Syria, and smuggled into the Gaza Strip through underground tunnels along Gaza's border with Egypt. Hamas' avowed goal is the destruction of the State of Israel. Before last Tuesday night, Be'er Sheva had never been targeted by rockets from the Gaza Strip before. Israelis had not thought it possible, though in an article around Dec. 21st or 22nd in the Jerusalem Post, the Israeli Intelligence Arm warned that Hamas now possessed rockets with the range to strike Be'er Sheva. Hamas also uses Gaza civilians as human shields, and stores rockets and munitions inside of mosques. The people of Gaza are dependent upon humanitarian aid, which Israel has continued to allow in during the crisis. Meanwhile, Hamas spends its money on weapons and training, some of whom go to Iran to train with Iran's elite forces.
Tuesday night, an empty kindergarten in Be'er Sheva was hit, and last Wednesday, an empty high school, on the opposite side of the university from us.
Ask yourself, if towns on the U.S. Southern Gulf Coast found themselves the recipient of rockets launched from Cuba, would the U.S. military stand by and do nothing? Then, I ask, how can European and Arab governments expect that, having endured hundreds of rocket launches on it's southern towns, Israel's military is unilaterally supposed to cease-fire, while rockets are still being launched towards Israel from the Gaza Strip?
The situation, in a nutshell, is not as simple as a cease-fire by Israel. Mechanisms need to be put in place to prevent the re-armament and re-supply of Hamas by Iran and Syria, thus (hopefully) bringing a sustainable peace to the region. Israel has called for international observers to be placed in the Gaza Strip following cessation of hostilities to ensure that future truces aren't
merely opportunities for Hamas to re-arm. The U.N. Security Council Resolution condemning the Israeli air and ground assault was blocked by the U.S., as it provided no such assurances. Israel has vowed to continue the offensive until no rockets are being launched at Israel.
Dawn and I are both safe, and staying largely in our apartment, as instructed by the Israeli Homefront Command. No rockets have landed in Be'er Sheva since Thursday. Other cities, however, closer to the Gaza Strip, continued to be hit on Saturday, with a total of 35 rockets striking targets in Ashkelon, Ashdod, and other towns.
It seems that the U.S. is the only country supporting Israel's right to defend itself at the moment. For the latest news in English from an Israeli perspective, visit the Jerusalem Post at:
www.jpost.com
Starting back in Summer 2008, Egypt brokered a 6 month truce between Hamas, labeled as a terrorist organization by the U.S., and Israel. Hamas, elected in democratic, internationally monitored elections in 2006, controls the Gaza Strip, while the internationally recognized Palestinian government (Abbas and the Palestianian Authority) controls the West Bank. The West Bank is actually on the eastern border with Israel, as it gets its name from the West Bank of the Jordan River. The Gaza Strip is a small strip of land bordering the Mediterranean and Egypt, and sharing its eastern border with southern Israel. (A World Atlas may come in handy here right about now).
Hamas, it turns out, used this truce to re-arm with longer range rockets supplied by Iran and Syria, and smuggled into the Gaza Strip through underground tunnels along Gaza's border with Egypt. Hamas' avowed goal is the destruction of the State of Israel. Before last Tuesday night, Be'er Sheva had never been targeted by rockets from the Gaza Strip before. Israelis had not thought it possible, though in an article around Dec. 21st or 22nd in the Jerusalem Post, the Israeli Intelligence Arm warned that Hamas now possessed rockets with the range to strike Be'er Sheva. Hamas also uses Gaza civilians as human shields, and stores rockets and munitions inside of mosques. The people of Gaza are dependent upon humanitarian aid, which Israel has continued to allow in during the crisis. Meanwhile, Hamas spends its money on weapons and training, some of whom go to Iran to train with Iran's elite forces.
Tuesday night, an empty kindergarten in Be'er Sheva was hit, and last Wednesday, an empty high school, on the opposite side of the university from us.
Ask yourself, if towns on the U.S. Southern Gulf Coast found themselves the recipient of rockets launched from Cuba, would the U.S. military stand by and do nothing? Then, I ask, how can European and Arab governments expect that, having endured hundreds of rocket launches on it's southern towns, Israel's military is unilaterally supposed to cease-fire, while rockets are still being launched towards Israel from the Gaza Strip?
The situation, in a nutshell, is not as simple as a cease-fire by Israel. Mechanisms need to be put in place to prevent the re-armament and re-supply of Hamas by Iran and Syria, thus (hopefully) bringing a sustainable peace to the region. Israel has called for international observers to be placed in the Gaza Strip following cessation of hostilities to ensure that future truces aren't
merely opportunities for Hamas to re-arm. The U.N. Security Council Resolution condemning the Israeli air and ground assault was blocked by the U.S., as it provided no such assurances. Israel has vowed to continue the offensive until no rockets are being launched at Israel.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Christmas and Jerusalem Photos
We are safe and at home in Be'er Sheva. Apologies for the very long journal entry about Christmas and our trip to Jerusalem. You may view the photos from our trip online at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/airzoojosh/ChristmasDayAndJerusalem2008#
I recommend following along with the blog while looking at the pictures of the trip (See entry immediately prior to this one). We hope everyone is enjoying the holidays back home!
Josh and Dawn
http://picasaweb.google.com/airzoojosh/ChristmasDayAndJerusalem2008#
I recommend following along with the blog while looking at the pictures of the trip (See entry immediately prior to this one). We hope everyone is enjoying the holidays back home!
Josh and Dawn
Christmas Day Brunch and Trip to Jerusalem
By now, everyone has heard of the Israeli airstrikes against Hamas government and military targets in the Gaza Strip. We are relatively safe in Be'er Sheva, on the very outer edge of the 40 km. range of Hamas rockets. Be'er Sheva has NEVER been hit by a Hamas rocket, and we both hope this trend continues! All the same, I have never experienced the feeling of being near a war zone before, and it is not one I relish, needless to say. Security has increased at the university. They now check everyone's bags by hand.
On Christmas Day, last Thursday, we enjoyed a wonderful brunch at the apartment of David and Daria Byron, with eggs, waffles, pancakes, and real bacon, bought at a large Russian supermarket in the BIG (yes, that's its name) shopping complex. There were also hashbrowns, scones, and the stollen (German Christmas bread), which Dawn made. Afterwards, we enjoyed the first half of It's a Wonderful Life, with James Stewart. We left to go to campus to make several phone calls to our parents and grandparents back home via Skype. We also purchased tickets for our parents (OK, they paid for it, but I found a great price and did the booking!) to come visit us at the end of March! We are looking forward to it already!
Friday morning, Dec. 26th, we left for 3 nights in Jerusalem, expecting our water-leaking, wall dampening bathroom to be all fixed upon our return. Well, it turns out our landlord got the date wrong and now we have to make plans to be away from our apartment for 2 days at the end of this week. We won't be able to use the toilet, shower, or sink, while the tile floor is torn out and replaced. Anyway, back to Jerusalem... We arrived at 11:30 am at the Central Bus Station and took Bus #18 towards Yoav and Hilla's house. Yoav had forgotten his cell phone, and we were on the bus and he was not answering his phone! But he retrieved it and told us where to get off and picked us up in their car about 12:30. Lunch was not on the menu, as it turned out, so Dawn and I each had a falafel outside the Lion's Gate, one of 7 gates to Jerusalem's Old City, and made it to the meeting point in time for the weekly tour by priests of the 14 Stations of the Cross. It turns out, however, that they take the week of Christmas off, so there was no tour on Dec. 26th! I had bought a guide booklet in Be'er Sheva and we found most of the Stations on our own, except several at the end in the Church of the Holy Sepelchur and Station 8, but we were close! Yoav picked us up and we had a veritable Hannukah feast put on by Hilla (pronounced He-la) for us and 3 friends, one a couple with a 3 year old boy. And this was just Friday!
Saturday, December 27th (Happy Birthday Mom!), Yoav and Hilla slept late as it was the Sabbath, and we had breakfast around 10 am. Then, Yoav put Imri, their 11 month old son, and us in the car and drove us (minus Hilla, who had to do revisions to her MA thesis) out to the Mt. of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane. Some places were not open between the hours of 12 and 2 pm, but we still saw quite a lot. I was especially moved by the Grotto of Gethsemane, the very spot where Jesus was betrayed by Judas. The Basilica of the Garden of Gethsemane also had a very holy aura surrounding it. We also saw what is reputed to be the burial site of Mary, and we climbed up the Mt. of Olives for a wonderful overlook of Jerusalem's walled Old City and the Dome of the Rock. I can imagine how beautiful it is at sunrise and sunset, as the guidebooks say. We got back to Yoav and Hillas around 4 pm, and Hilla was nearly in tears. The Israeli offensive had begun shortly after 12 pm, and Arabs were protesting in and around the Old City, parts of which we passed through on our way back from East Jerusalem. Yoav had had his cell phone on silent and thus did not hear the repeated phone calls. After everyone had calmed down, we enjoyed a relaxing evening at home, while keeping abreast of the news on the Israeli offensive on TV.
Due to the Arab protests, Yoav suggested we visit the Israel Museum and avoid the Old City on Sunday. He dropped us off and went to go study. The main exhibition halls of the museum were closed for renovation, but we still saw the HUGE model of Jerusalem as depicted just before the Jewish Revolt in 66 CE, complete with the Second Temple and individual houses, palaces, everything. The model took a team the model builder and an archealogist 4 years to build. It was completed in 1965, two years before Israel regained control of East Jerusalem and the Old City, where the Temple had stood. Then, after surveying the modernist Sculpture Garden, we went inside the Shrine of the Book, where the Dead Sea Scrolls and other ancient Biblical texts are on display, as well as artifacts from the 1st century BCE - 1st century CE from the Qum'ram site, where the Essenes lived (the writers of the Dead Sea Scrolls). Next at about 1 pm, we took a taxi to Yad Vashem, the Israel Holocaust Museum. Admission is free, and it was PACKED. But first we had a nice lunch in the Museum cafeteria.
After lunch, we spent the next two and a half hours going through the Museum. No pictures were allowed inside. I have visited the Berlin (Germany) Holocaust Museum, but the Israel Holocaust Museum was much more disturbing, much more powerful. We sped past the last 2 years of the war (there was that much to read), in order to see the Hall of Remembrance and some of the other exhibits not in the Historical Museum. Picture multitudes of Nazi propaganda memorabilia, Jewish artifacts, furniture, photos, and numerous audio-visual stations with first-hand survivor accounts. Seeing the bodies being thrown into pits upon the liberation of the camps, and the emaciated survivors, thousands of whom did not survive in spite of the Allied liberation, was overwhelming. If you are not choked up upon exiting, something is not quite right.
Yoav and Hilla had arranged for us to go on a Hannukiot (a Tour of the Hannukah Lights) in the Old City, and judged it was calm enough to do so. The tour was in Hebrew, technically only for students of Hebrew University, but Hilla had gained permission for all 4 of us. Yoav translated for us here and there, but we all left the tour early as they judged the guide not to be very good. We were all very hungry also. (The tour started at 5:30 pm). Sunday was also Yoav's 30th birthday. We treated them to dinner out at a restaurant at the Cinemataque art theater that Yoav's friend Hanan and his girlfriend had chosen. There was quite a mix up with our orders, but the food was good. Monday we came back to Be'er Sheva on the 11:30 am bus, arriving around 1:15 pm at the downtown station.
On Christmas Day, last Thursday, we enjoyed a wonderful brunch at the apartment of David and Daria Byron, with eggs, waffles, pancakes, and real bacon, bought at a large Russian supermarket in the BIG (yes, that's its name) shopping complex. There were also hashbrowns, scones, and the stollen (German Christmas bread), which Dawn made. Afterwards, we enjoyed the first half of It's a Wonderful Life, with James Stewart. We left to go to campus to make several phone calls to our parents and grandparents back home via Skype. We also purchased tickets for our parents (OK, they paid for it, but I found a great price and did the booking!) to come visit us at the end of March! We are looking forward to it already!
Friday morning, Dec. 26th, we left for 3 nights in Jerusalem, expecting our water-leaking, wall dampening bathroom to be all fixed upon our return. Well, it turns out our landlord got the date wrong and now we have to make plans to be away from our apartment for 2 days at the end of this week. We won't be able to use the toilet, shower, or sink, while the tile floor is torn out and replaced. Anyway, back to Jerusalem... We arrived at 11:30 am at the Central Bus Station and took Bus #18 towards Yoav and Hilla's house. Yoav had forgotten his cell phone, and we were on the bus and he was not answering his phone! But he retrieved it and told us where to get off and picked us up in their car about 12:30. Lunch was not on the menu, as it turned out, so Dawn and I each had a falafel outside the Lion's Gate, one of 7 gates to Jerusalem's Old City, and made it to the meeting point in time for the weekly tour by priests of the 14 Stations of the Cross. It turns out, however, that they take the week of Christmas off, so there was no tour on Dec. 26th! I had bought a guide booklet in Be'er Sheva and we found most of the Stations on our own, except several at the end in the Church of the Holy Sepelchur and Station 8, but we were close! Yoav picked us up and we had a veritable Hannukah feast put on by Hilla (pronounced He-la) for us and 3 friends, one a couple with a 3 year old boy. And this was just Friday!
Saturday, December 27th (Happy Birthday Mom!), Yoav and Hilla slept late as it was the Sabbath, and we had breakfast around 10 am. Then, Yoav put Imri, their 11 month old son, and us in the car and drove us (minus Hilla, who had to do revisions to her MA thesis) out to the Mt. of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane. Some places were not open between the hours of 12 and 2 pm, but we still saw quite a lot. I was especially moved by the Grotto of Gethsemane, the very spot where Jesus was betrayed by Judas. The Basilica of the Garden of Gethsemane also had a very holy aura surrounding it. We also saw what is reputed to be the burial site of Mary, and we climbed up the Mt. of Olives for a wonderful overlook of Jerusalem's walled Old City and the Dome of the Rock. I can imagine how beautiful it is at sunrise and sunset, as the guidebooks say. We got back to Yoav and Hillas around 4 pm, and Hilla was nearly in tears. The Israeli offensive had begun shortly after 12 pm, and Arabs were protesting in and around the Old City, parts of which we passed through on our way back from East Jerusalem. Yoav had had his cell phone on silent and thus did not hear the repeated phone calls. After everyone had calmed down, we enjoyed a relaxing evening at home, while keeping abreast of the news on the Israeli offensive on TV.
Due to the Arab protests, Yoav suggested we visit the Israel Museum and avoid the Old City on Sunday. He dropped us off and went to go study. The main exhibition halls of the museum were closed for renovation, but we still saw the HUGE model of Jerusalem as depicted just before the Jewish Revolt in 66 CE, complete with the Second Temple and individual houses, palaces, everything. The model took a team the model builder and an archealogist 4 years to build. It was completed in 1965, two years before Israel regained control of East Jerusalem and the Old City, where the Temple had stood. Then, after surveying the modernist Sculpture Garden, we went inside the Shrine of the Book, where the Dead Sea Scrolls and other ancient Biblical texts are on display, as well as artifacts from the 1st century BCE - 1st century CE from the Qum'ram site, where the Essenes lived (the writers of the Dead Sea Scrolls). Next at about 1 pm, we took a taxi to Yad Vashem, the Israel Holocaust Museum. Admission is free, and it was PACKED. But first we had a nice lunch in the Museum cafeteria.
After lunch, we spent the next two and a half hours going through the Museum. No pictures were allowed inside. I have visited the Berlin (Germany) Holocaust Museum, but the Israel Holocaust Museum was much more disturbing, much more powerful. We sped past the last 2 years of the war (there was that much to read), in order to see the Hall of Remembrance and some of the other exhibits not in the Historical Museum. Picture multitudes of Nazi propaganda memorabilia, Jewish artifacts, furniture, photos, and numerous audio-visual stations with first-hand survivor accounts. Seeing the bodies being thrown into pits upon the liberation of the camps, and the emaciated survivors, thousands of whom did not survive in spite of the Allied liberation, was overwhelming. If you are not choked up upon exiting, something is not quite right.
Yoav and Hilla had arranged for us to go on a Hannukiot (a Tour of the Hannukah Lights) in the Old City, and judged it was calm enough to do so. The tour was in Hebrew, technically only for students of Hebrew University, but Hilla had gained permission for all 4 of us. Yoav translated for us here and there, but we all left the tour early as they judged the guide not to be very good. We were all very hungry also. (The tour started at 5:30 pm). Sunday was also Yoav's 30th birthday. We treated them to dinner out at a restaurant at the Cinemataque art theater that Yoav's friend Hanan and his girlfriend had chosen. There was quite a mix up with our orders, but the food was good. Monday we came back to Be'er Sheva on the 11:30 am bus, arriving around 1:15 pm at the downtown station.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Christmas Cookies and Caroling
Once again, it has been 2 weeks since I last wrote. I have been very busy, among other things, considering beginning a PhD in Foreign Languages and Literatures, struggling onward in my Ivrit (Hebrew) bakitah (class), reading and attending for Prof. Gelber's Current Topics in Literature Seminar, researching for the Stefan Zweig annotation project for the German Studies Center, which Prof. Gelber heads, and of course, tutoring English. Add to that the Young Voices Magazine proposed project, and, well, you get the idea!
Tonight is Christmas Eve, but as we are in Israel, it is of course a regular work day, though we are in the midst of Hannukah, there's no sign of outward festivities here in Be'er Sheva. Once again, I must emphasize that we are in the Jewish State. Christmas is only evident in cities that are holy to Christians (Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Nazareth, etc.) It is thus not "a wonderful experience to be in the Holy Land at Christmas", not unless one is in one of the cities where pilgrims frequent. The observed holiday for the 8 day Hannukah holiday is Sunday,December 28th, when we don't have my Hebrew class for a change. There is a Christmas Eve service tonight at the Catholic Church, but my Hebrew Ulpan meets from 5-8 pm. There is another service on Christmas Day, but I don't know if we will go. David and Daria, another med student and his wife, are hosting a Christmas Day brunch at their apartment tomorrow. (The American med school students get Christmas Day off, but ONLY Christmas Day).
A week and a half ago (Saturday, Dec. 13th), Sonja, from Austria, and Nadine, from Germany, came over to our apartment for some Christmas cookie baking. After about 4 hours of prep work and baking, everyone was ready to call it a day (we took a break for dinner... I think we had spaghetti and salad). The Christmas music of the King's Choir of Cambridge which I had downloaded from ITunes was playing, and I even found some German Christmas songs on YouTube and other sites, including our favorite of the day, "In the Weihnachtsbaeckerei" (In the Christmas Bakery).
Last Friday night, December 19th, we made our weekly trek to the med school student-led Bible Study, (a 40 minute walk... There are no buses on Shabbat) for a couple hours of Christmas Caroling, food, fun, and fellowship. Jacob looked like the Fonz from Happy Days, with his hair slicked back, as he led with the piano, while Ryan and David accompanied him with their guitars to all the favorites: O Come All Ye Faithful, Joy to the World, Hark the Herald Angels Sing, and some fun songs, like Rudolph and Walking in a Winter Wonderland, just to name a few. Spiced hot wine, similar to Gluehwein, hot apple cider, and prayer in 2 and 3 person groups served to round out a wonderful evening. I'll attach pictures of the cookie making and baking, and of the Christmas Caroling.
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